If you use mica then both sides of the mica need thermal compound.

To reduce this risk, insert a thermally conductive, electrically insulated space betwee one of the interfaces. This is at risk of being shorted to to ground or to +ve supply with careless handling. If the chipamp back face is live then the spacer and heatsink will also be live. This is to keep the metal surfaces as close together as possible and to eliminate any and all air from the thermal interfaces. Use thermally conductive compound spread very thinly on both sides of the metal spacer. Make that hole big enough to pass the whole chipamp area through.ДЎ.) bolt the chipamp direct to the heatsink face, if the legs of the chip are long enough to reach all the way through.Дў.) insert a copper or aluminium spacer plate that slightly exceeds the thickness of the plastic case.Д«olt the heatsink to the chipamp using that highly conductive metal spacer. It looks like it goes right into pin 4 (VEE) for the single supply application.That pic looks like it shows the heatsink separated from the chipamp thermal interface with a layer of sticky goo and the wall of the plastic casing.Д¬ut a hole through the plastic case. What do you mean exactly about grounding the 'outside' of the input caps? So, like a pulldown resistor on the input lines? I am under the assumption that the input caps are there to filter out DC, the same function as the output caps.ДЄre you sure the signal - should go directly to the In- pin? The singly supply suggested schematic has it going to whatever they define ground as, which is created using the biasing stage and transistor. I might go buy some cheap audio receivers from a thrift store and rip the supplies out if I can. no biasing stage would make it so simple. The more I look at the schematic the more I want a split supply though. which one sounds better LM4780 or the LM3886 Thanks. I might try using two transformers, I don't particularly want to drop money on a new one if I don't have to. Hi all, I did search for an answer on this, but all i got was millions of unrelated threads. I am shying away from a split supply purely because I have a transformer laying around that gives me a solid 28-30V, but is not center tapped. That P2P vs PCB thread is amazing, it took me days to read through it though! It has become obvious to me that the closer I can get my components to the chip the less inductance I'll have in the lines, but which components should I prioritize? Basically, does this schematic make sense with regards to grounding? I designed a PCB based on this, however the more I read on star grounds and component placement the more I'm second guessing my design. I've redone the schematic in the app notes so that the components are grouped by function.

Tons of people here on DiyAudio swear that star grounds are necessary, and even the app note says so, yet any and all audio equipment I've taken apart does not have this grounding scheme and some 'grounding gurus' claim that ground plains reduce RF and are more stable. I've seen conflicting information about star ground vs ground layers. I've been reading through this thread, as well as other sites about grounding. Input and output filters should always be used. Supply noise caps are important, need to be right on the pins of the chip. Why? Because I realized that there is a significant amount of extra room inside my 2-channel eq that I've had sitting under my monitor forever, and I want to put a stealthy amp inside of it to reclaim some desk space. So after my long drawn-out journey with the LM1875, I've finally decided to move on to the LM4766. Please check my schematic, does it make sense? Which components should I prioritize to be close to the chip (besides the supply noise caps obviously)? TLDR: I made a LM4766 schematic based on the app notes, re-positioned all the components and separated them based on their function.

Lm4766 vs lm3886